Need a V8 ?
A quick guide to getting more power.
A basic 302/5.0 or 351W swap should take 50-70 hours if using the
components listed below. Before starting a conversion, we recommend that you
check local and state vehicle regulations to insure the modifications are legal.
James Duff Ent Inc cannot be held liable for any vehicle modifications since
all conversion components are intended for off-road use only. See inside back
cover for warranty information.
When converting your Ranger or Bronco
II to a V8, many of your stock components can be reused. However, it is easier
and cheaper to purchase a complete "take-out" engine from a wrecking
yard that already has the necessary components and brackets. If you cannot find
one of these motors, we have provided a list of accessories and brackets to
assist you with your conversion. You need a belt system using three belts to
gain sufficient radiator clearance.
are 3 popular options for engine swaps:
Carbureted 302: For '83-85 trucks with the carbureted 2.8, this is
the easiest swap. On later models, it is nearly impossible to pass emissions
with this setup. Refer to the following information for the modifications necessary
4.0L V6: On '86 and newer 2.9L V6
equipped vehicles, this is essentially a bolt-in swap. The 4.0 engine control
computer, engine wiring loom, cooling system, and transmission should all be
swapped in. This engine makes 170 hp, and can be upgraded with a Duff Power
Chip, a free flow air filter, and even a supercharger.
5.0L V8 (Fuel Injected 302): On '86
and newer 2.9L V6 equipped trucks, swapping in the 215 hp 5.0L is similar to
the 4.0L swap, in that you'll need to take the engine control computer and engine
wiring loom from the donor vehicle. The modifications necessary for installation
are mostly the same as the carbureted 302. If all emission equipment is retained,
most states will accept it as emissions legal.
It is possible to swap in a 351W
with many of the same components as the 302, but tight clearances make this
much more difficult.
The original Bronco II and Ranger transmissions are too weak to withstand
V8 power, and must be swapped for a heavier duty transmission. You have the
option of changing your Manual truck to an automatic, or vice versa at this
In '83-'84, some vehicles came with
a C5 automatic. In these vehicles, a V8 torque converter and bellhousing can
be installed on the C5, though we suggest buying a stronger C4 originally used
with a V8. Then have the C5 main shaft and tailhousing installed in the C4.
A used C4 trans should cost between $75-$200.
The C4 3-speed automatic is the most popular transmission for the V8 swap. Three
different length C4 adapters eliminate the need for driveshaft modifications.
To determine which adapter you need, measure the overall length of your existing
trans assembly from the back of the engine block to the front of your transfer
case, then match the closest possible length below. The transmission code numbers
can be checked, but keep in mind the tag on the door may not match the vehicle.
Therefore, checking the physical length is preferred. When using a C4 with a
5.0L, its best to use an engine control computer that came with a manual transmission,
as they don't require input from transmission sensors.
| X (4-speed
Toyo Kogyo) or V (C3 Automatic)
(A4LD Automatic), M or D (5-speed Mitsubishi)
| 5 (5-speed
A 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive (AOD)
transmission can be swapped in for better fuel economy and greater versatility.
If your vehicle didn't originally come with an A4LD overdrive automatic or Mitsubishi
5-speed, driveshaft modifications will be necessary. When installing this trans
with a 5.0L, it is important to use an engine control computer originally matched
with an AOD.
#3530 AOD Adapter, '80 - '87 (29.5" assembled) $497.50
#3535 AOD Adapter, 1988 and newer (25.5" assembled) $497.50
#3532 AOD Adapter, 1988 and newer (29.5" assembled) $497.50
If you want a manual transmission,
the Borg Warner World Class T5 5-speed from a Mustang is the way to go. Since
the T5 uses a mechanical clutch, you will need to install an external clutch
slave cylinder to adapt to your original hydraulic clutch.
#3648 T5 Adapter (28.50" assembled) NLA
#3649 T5 Adapter (26.75" assembled)#3650 T5 Adapter (29.375" assembled)
These motor mounts bolt a V8 block to the existing crossmember. They are rubber
insulated with safety pins. The mounts set the V8 slightly higher than the original
engine to make enough room for the oil pan. The rear of the new V8 will be in
the same location as the original V6 or 4 cyl. engine. For 2WD, a different
set of adapter plates and motor mounts are necessary due to crossmember differences.
The engine crossmember must be drilled for the new motor mounts. With the mounts,
you receive a diagram showing the location of the new 1/2" slots. Although
every attempt has been made to provide you with the correct locations, there
are some variations where the slot may need to be enlarged.
#3641 4WD Motor Mounts, 302/5.0L/351W $199.00
#3114 2WD Motor Mounts, 302/5.0L/351W $45.00
#3638 2WD Engine Mounting Plates, 302/5.0L/351W $89.85
| OIL PAN
The V8 will need the dual sump oil pan kit. You need to
grind the rear I-beam drop bracket slightly for drain plug clearance.
No provision for dipstick.
#3642 Dual Sump Oil Pan Kit, 302/5.0L $199.00
Start off your exhaust system right with our tuned headers! Their long-runner
design produces more torque than stock manifolds or shorty headers.
do not include an oxygen sensor port, but a reducer cone with sensor port
can be easily fitted. Unfortunately, due to steering shaft interference,
they won't fit on 351s. In this case, stock manifolds or shorty headers
must be made to fit. Pictured here.
#3635 Headers, 302/5.0L $239.00
This new 4-core radiator uses a remote filler so that the radiator can be tucked
underneath the front grill support and includes the transmission cooler. Our custom design is lighter weight and offers at least 20% more cooling efficiency
than our copper/brass model, which is the same size! Two cores, 1" wide
tubes, 14 fins per inch for efficient airflow. No-epoxy, fully Tig welded tank
made of .080 thick material with furnace brazed cores insures a leak free radiator.
Fits 302, 5.0L and 351W IN A Bronco II, Ranger or Explorer. Features a heat exchanger
style tranny cooler with 1/2" NPT ports.
#3631 V8 Conversion Aluminum Radiator $395.00
|BILLET RADIATOR CAP
Give your aluminum radiator a finished look with this billet cap. A
16lb. pressure cap is siliconed inside the finished billet cap. This
allows you to replace the pressure cap if it is ever to fail.
#3113 Billet Radiator Cap $29.95
On some conversions, you will be able to retain a stock mechanical
fan. If have located your engine correctly, you will have .5" to 1.5" of clearance
between the fan and radiator. However, many variations require the use of an
electric fan. In those cases, we offer a 16" Flex-a-lite puller fan.
Includes all the necessary hardware for installing without bolting through
which can cause serious damage off-road. The temperature sensor and manual
switches are sold separately so you can decide which you prefer. The fan
has a rating
of 1450 CFM and draws 10 amps. It is best to mount the fan slightly towards
the passenger side of the radiator to prevent interference with the water
#3131 Electric Fan, 16" Puller $140.00
#3132 Illuminated Fan Switch $19.50
#3133 Temperature Sensor Switch $44.50
There are two different belt systems, serpentine and "V" belt. Your
pump should have an intake spout on the driver's side to match our radiator.
The serpentine belt is reverse rotation, so you must keep the belt system
your pump came with.
|POWER STEERING PUMP
You can use your stock power steering pump by using the correct brackets,
found on most Ford passenger cars, 1978-86. You need the correct V8
pulley for proper belt alignment. Original length hoses can be used
on most conversions. For your convenience we've provided the Ford part
numbers below. 2wd will need to modify a V8 bracket to fit.
Ford P/S Brackets........#E7TZ-3C511-A
Ford P/S Pump.............#E6SZ-3A674-B
Ford P/S Reservoir.......#E1FZ-3A697-A
Your stock V6 alternator can be kept by using the correct V8 pulley,
alternator bracket and adjuster. If you are replacing a 4 cyl. engine,
you should purchase a V8 alternator to provide the correct amperage.
Ford Alternator Mounting Bracket...#E7TZ-10A313-B
Ford Alternator Adjuster Bracket....#E6AZ-2888-A
If your vehicle has air conditioning and you wish to keep it, the heater
box on the firewall will need extensively cut, though a body lift helps
reduce this. The stock compressor may be used if you can find V8 mounting
brackets. The wiring and hoses may need extended to reach the new compressor
location. The AC condenser must be relocated to the front side of the
radiator to clear the fan. The center vertical bar in the core support
must be cut out to make room.
On carbureted V8s you must use an in-line electric fuel pump with a
5-7 psi rating. In most cases, a mechanical fuel pump will interfere
with your steering box. If your vehicle came with electronic fuel injection,
you have an in-tank fuel pump with a 40 psi rating. A regulator must
be used to reduce pressure to 5-7 psi. If a regulator is unavailable,
you need to remove the in-tank fuel pump and install an in-line electric
fuel pump. On fuel injected V8s, you can retain the stock in-tank pump.
If you install a highly modified engine, you may need to upgrade to
a more powerful pump to supply more fuel pressure.
The starter motor, flywheel, bellhousing, and torque converter (or clutch)
are a matched set. V8's in F-series came with 168 tooth flywheels which
are larger and harder to fit around the firewall. The 157 tooth flywheel
from passenger cars is smaller and easier to fit. It is important to check
your flywheel and starter for proper engagement before installing the engine.
Your firewall and floorpan area is narrow and may need some slight modifications.
We suggest using a 14" torque converter and bellhousing to make clearance.
Otherwise, a 3 lb sledge hammer can make enough room. The body seam between
the floorpan and the firewall must be bent over. In some instances, additional
clearance may be needed near the bottom corners where the firewall and the
floorpan meet. The heater box will need to be trimmed slightly and patched
to clear the valve cover.
When converting to a V8, you can use the stock V6 temperature and pressure
gauge sending units. If your vehicle has a mechanical tachometer, you will
need to have it re-calibrated for the new engine.
SUSPENSION OR BODY LIFTS:
Most swaps do not require the use of a suspension or body lift. However,
a 2" body lift can greatly reduce the amount of firewall, heater box
and floorpan modifications. See the Bushing page for body lift information.
Reinforcing the front suspension with a suspension lift or double shocks
is highly recommended.
Box trimmed to clear the valve
cover (without body lift). Arrow indicates flange on
firewall to be hammered back for bellhousing clearance.
Front: The Dana 35 from 89-97 4.0L Rangers and 91-94 Explorers is the easiest
upgrade. It bolts into the same mounting points as the Dana 28, but does require
some driveshaft modifications.
Rear: For Rangers, the 8.8"
rear axle from '89-97 Rangers is a bolt-in, with some driveshaft changes. For
Bronco II's, the same axle can be used, but the spring perches have to be relocated.
The 9" is also a good choice, just be sure to check it for the correct
width before installing. However, most 9" axles have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern,
which will need changed to 5x4.5 to match the front axle.
ALSO CHECK OUT OUR 302 V-8 CONVERSION HEADERS
6609 Bronco Dr., Knoxville, TN 37921
7am-3pm M-F West Coast
10am-6pm M-F East Coast