Need a V8 ?
A quick guide to getting more power.
A basic 302/5.0 or 351W swap should take 50-70 hours if using the components listed below. Before starting a conversion, we recommend that you check local and state vehicle regulations to insure the modifications are legal. James Duff Ent Inc cannot be held liable for any vehicle modifications since all conversion components are intended for off-road use only. See inside back cover for warranty information.

When converting your Ranger or Bronco II to a V8, many of your stock components can be reused. However, it is easier and cheaper to purchase a complete "take-out" engine from a wrecking yard that already has the necessary components and brackets. If you cannot find one of these motors, we have provided a list of accessories and brackets to assist you with your conversion. You need a belt system using three belts to gain sufficient radiator clearance.

There are 3 popular options for engine swaps:
Carbureted 302: For '83-85 trucks with the carbureted 2.8, this is the easiest swap. On later models, it is nearly impossible to pass emissions with this setup. Refer to the following information for the modifications necessary for installation.

4.0L V6: On '86 and newer 2.9L V6 equipped vehicles, this is essentially a bolt-in swap. The 4.0 engine control computer, engine wiring loom, cooling system, and transmission should all be swapped in. This engine makes 170 hp, and can be upgraded with a Duff Power Chip, a free flow air filter, and even a supercharger.

5.0L V8 (Fuel Injected 302): On '86 and newer 2.9L V6 equipped trucks, swapping in the 215 hp 5.0L is similar to the 4.0L swap, in that you'll need to take the engine control computer and engine wiring loom from the donor vehicle. The modifications necessary for installation are mostly the same as the carbureted 302. If all emission equipment is retained, most states will accept it as emissions legal.

It is possible to swap in a 351W with many of the same components as the 302, but tight clearances make this much more difficult.

In '83-'84, some vehicles came with a C5 automatic. In these vehicles, a V8 torque converter and bellhousing can be installed on the C5, though we suggest buying a stronger C4 originally used with a V8. Then have the C5 main shaft and tailhousing installed in the C4. A used C4 trans should cost between $75-$200.

A 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive (AOD) transmission can be swapped in for better fuel economy and greater versatility. If your vehicle didn't originally come with an A4LD overdrive automatic or Mitsubishi 5-speed, driveshaft modifications will be necessary. When installing this trans with a 5.0L, it is important to use an engine control computer originally matched with an AOD.
#3530 AOD Adapter, '80 - '87 (29.5" assembled) $497.50
#3535 AOD Adapter, 1988 and newer (25.5" assembled) $497.50
#3532 AOD Adapter, 1988 and newer (29.5" assembled) $497.50

If you want a manual transmission, the Borg Warner World Class T5 5-speed from a Mustang is the way to go. Since the T5 uses a mechanical clutch, you will need to install an external clutch slave cylinder to adapt to your original hydraulic clutch.
#3648 T5 Adapter (28.50" assembled) NLA
#3649 T5 Adapter (26.75" assembled)#3650 T5 Adapter (29.375" assembled) NLA

MOTOR MOUNTS
These motor mounts bolt a V8 block to the existing crossmember. They are rubber insulated with safety pins. The mounts set the V8 slightly higher than the original engine to make enough room for the oil pan. The rear of the new V8 will be in the same location as the original V6 or 4 cyl. engine. For 2WD, a different set of adapter plates and motor mounts are necessary due to crossmember differences. The engine crossmember must be drilled for the new motor mounts. With the mounts, you receive a diagram showing the location of the new 1/2" slots. Although every attempt has been made to provide you with the correct locations, there are some variations where the slot may need to be enlarged.
#3641 4WD Motor Mounts, 302/5.0L/351W $199.00
#3114 2WD Motor Mounts, 302/5.0L/351W $45.00
#3638 2WD Engine Mounting Plates, 302/5.0L/351W $89.85

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OIL PAN The V8 will need the dual sump oil pan kit. You need to grind the rear I-beam drop bracket slightly for drain plug clearance. No provision for dipstick. #3642 Dual Sump Oil Pan Kit, 302/5.0L $199.00

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EXHAUST
Start off your exhaust system right with our tuned headers! Their long-runner design produces more torque than stock manifolds or shorty headers. They do not include an oxygen sensor port, but a reducer cone with sensor port can be easily fitted. Unfortunately, due to steering shaft interference, they won't fit on 351s. In this case, stock manifolds or shorty headers must be made to fit. Pictured here.
#3635 Headers, 302/5.0L $239.00

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ALUMINUM RADIATOR This new 4-core radiator uses a remote filler so that the radiator can be tucked underneath the front grill support and includes the transmission cooler. Our custom design is lighter weight and offers at least 20% more cooling efficiency than our copper/brass model, which is the same size! Two cores, 1" wide tubes, 14 fins per inch for efficient airflow. No-epoxy, fully Tig welded tank made of .080 thick material with furnace brazed cores insures a leak free radiator. Fits 302, 5.0L and 351W IN A Bronco II, Ranger or Explorer. Features a heat exchanger style tranny cooler with 1/2" NPT ports. #3631 V8 Conversion Aluminum Radiator $375.00

BILLET RADIATOR CAP Give your aluminum radiator a finished look with this billet cap. A 16lb. pressure cap is siliconed inside the finished billet cap. This allows you to replace the pressure cap if it is ever to fail. #3113 Billet Radiator Cap $29.95

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FAN
On some conversions, you will be able to retain a stock mechanical fan. If have located your engine correctly, you will have .5" to 1.5" of clearance between the fan and radiator. However, many variations require the use of an electric fan. In those cases, we offer a 16" Flex-a-lite puller fan. Includes all the necessary hardware for installing without bolting through the radiator, which can cause serious damage off-road. The temperature sensor and manual switches are sold separately so you can decide which you prefer. The fan has a rating of 1450 CFM and draws 10 amps. It is best to mount the fan slightly towards the passenger side of the radiator to prevent interference with the water pump pulley.


#3131 Electric Fan, 16" Puller $140.00
#3132 Illuminated Fan Switch $15.50
#3133 Temperature Sensor Switch $34.50

WATER PUMP
There are two different belt systems, serpentine and "V" belt. Your pump should have an intake spout on the driver's side to match our radiator. The serpentine belt is reverse rotation, so you must keep the belt system your pump came with.

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POWER STEERING PUMP You can use your stock power steering pump by using the correct brackets, found on most Ford passenger cars, 1978-86. You need the correct V8 pulley for proper belt alignment. Original length hoses can be used on most conversions. For your convenience we've provided the Ford part numbers below. 2wd will need to modify a V8 bracket to fit. Ford P/S Brackets........#E7TZ-3C511-A Ford P/S Pump.............#E6SZ-3A674-B Ford P/S Reservoir.......#E1FZ-3A697-A		ALTERNATOR Your stock V6 alternator can be kept by using the correct V8 pulley, alternator bracket and adjuster. If you are replacing a 4 cyl. engine, you should purchase a V8 alternator to provide the correct amperage. Ford Alternator Mounting Bracket...#E7TZ-10A313-B Ford Alternator Adjuster Bracket....#E6AZ-2888-A
AIR CONDITIONING If your vehicle has air conditioning and you wish to keep it, the heater box on the firewall will need extensively cut, though a body lift helps reduce this. The stock compressor may be used if you can find V8 mounting brackets. The wiring and hoses may need extended to reach the new compressor location. The AC condenser must be relocated to the front side of the radiator to clear the fan. The center vertical bar in the core support must be cut out to make room.		FUEL PUMP: On carbureted V8s you must use an in-line electric fuel pump with a 5-7 psi rating. In most cases, a mechanical fuel pump will interfere with your steering box. If your vehicle came with electronic fuel injection, you have an in-tank fuel pump with a 40 psi rating. A regulator must be used to reduce pressure to 5-7 psi. If a regulator is unavailable, you need to remove the in-tank fuel pump and install an in-line electric fuel pump. On fuel injected V8s, you can retain the stock in-tank pump. If you install a highly modified engine, you may need to upgrade to a more powerful pump to supply more fuel pressure.

FLYWHEEL/BELLHOUSING/STARTER MOTOR
The starter motor, flywheel, bellhousing, and torque converter (or clutch) are a matched set. V8's in F-series came with 168 tooth flywheels which are larger and harder to fit around the firewall. The 157 tooth flywheel from passenger cars is smaller and easier to fit. It is important to check your flywheel and starter for proper engagement before installing the engine.

 

FIREWALL:
Your firewall and floorpan area is narrow and may need some slight modifications. We suggest using a 14" torque converter and bellhousing to make clearance. Otherwise, a 3 lb sledge hammer can make enough room. The body seam between the floorpan and the firewall must be bent over. In some instances, additional clearance may be needed near the bottom corners where the firewall and the floorpan meet. The heater box will need to be trimmed slightly and patched to clear the valve cover.

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GAUGES When converting to a V8, you can use the stock V6 temperature and pressure gauge sending units. If your vehicle has a mechanical tachometer, you will need to have it re-calibrated for the new engine.

SUSPENSION OR BODY LIFTS: Most swaps do not require the use of a suspension or body lift. However, a 2" body lift can greatly reduce the amount of firewall, heater box and floorpan modifications. See the Bushing page for body lift information. Reinforcing the front suspension with a suspension lift or double shocks is highly recommended.

Air conditioner/Heater Box trimmed to clear the valve cover (without body lift). Arrow indicates flange on firewall to be hammered back for bellhousing clearance.

Rear: For Rangers, the 8.8" rear axle from '89-97 Rangers is a bolt-in, with some driveshaft changes. For Bronco II's, the same axle can be used, but the spring perches have to be relocated. The 9" is also a good choice, just be sure to check it for the correct width before installing. However, most 9" axles have a 5x5.5 bolt pattern, which will need changed to 5x4.5 to match the front axle.

ALSO CHECK OUT OUR 302 V-8 CONVERSION HEADERS

3231 NW Park Dr., Knoxville, TN 37921 Phone: 1-865-938-6696 7am-3pm M-F West Coast 10am-6pm M-F East Coast Fax: 1-865-938-6746 24 Hours